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How to eat in Wellington like a local

How to eat in Wellington like a local

Wellington is fast becoming the New Zealand version of good ol’ food-obsessed, coffee-addicted, hipster-to-the-max Melbourne. (Psst check out my post about how to spend 48 hours here). As the food culture is growing, unfortunately so are some of the price tags. Although I don’t mind splashing out every now and then, it’s certainly not something I can afford to do for a whole trip. One thing about us food-obsessed-budget-types: we’re more than happy to spend money for a good meal, just not too much money. There’s nothing more disappointing than a sad meal that you shouldn’t have paid so much for.

Having spent quite a bit of time in Wellington, I’ve done some research for us always-hungry, money-savvy types. These places all serve fantastic food, but without a price tag to send you into extreme saving mode once you’re home. I present to you a guide to eating in Wellington like a local. You’d expect to spend less than $35 for a decent feed at any of these places, and I’ve included a handy price legend for your budgeting convenience.

$ – $5-15
$$ – $15-25
$$$ – $25-35

Mouthwatering pizza at Scopa

Mouthwatering pizza at Scopa | Image courtesy of Scopa

Scopa – $-$$

My sources tell me that Scopa is one of the best pizza places in Wellington. The interior is dark yet warm, with friendly staff escorting you to a candle-lit table. They don’t have a ridiculous number of pizza options on the menu, which I liked. If there are too many, I just get overwhelmed and sit there for half an hour hopelessly trying to decide whilst getting hungrier and hangrier. There are a few “pizza bianca” options, where they use an olive oil rather than a tomato base. I was pretty impressed with this, as you don’t come across them that often.

The pizzas are “traditionally” Italian, cooked in a wood fire oven. They have a thin base and a few well-selected toppings, rather than being overloaded with them. They’re the roughly the size of a large plate; you could probably eat a whole one yourself but you certainly would not be feeling hungry after. Scopa stands out from other takeaway pizza places with their thin, crispy bases and the delicate balance of fewer toppings that all contribute to the flavour sensation, rather than being overpowered by, er, buckets and buckets of cheese.

Pro local tip: Scopa have some awesome weekly deals! Score a Margherita pizza for $8 on a Tuesday or try their pasta of the day for $12. Check more sweet specials here.

Soft shell crab burger and curly fries

Soft shell crab burger and curly fries from the Mt Victoria Chippery

Fish n chips – $

I’m sure this is common knowledge, but let me just reiterate: you need to eat fish and chips in New Zealand! I don’t know if it’s because the fish is fresher or what they put in the potatoes but they’re just so good! Most fish and chipperies serve kumara, or sweet potato, chips. Sweet potato chips are a bit of a hipster luxury found in brunch cafes in Melbourne. Unbeknownst to us, Kiwis have been chomping on these for years paying a fraction of the price.

Of all the fish & chip haunts in Wellington, one of the local favourites is the Mount Vic Chippery. For good reason, too. Their menu has a huge range of pretty much every type of fish found on this side of the ditch. However, they don’t serve everything all the time – only what’s been caught fresh that morning. On top of that, they’ve got even more specials of the day. Some examples might include Cajun fish tacos, hot smoked salmon salad, or a soft shell crab burger (check it out in the pic). They’re certainly not lacking in the chip department either, with options of hand cut agria, kumara, crinkle cut, beer-battered, AND curly fries.

A little FYI for anyone wanting the most food with minimal dollars: if you can get to the Chippery between 1-3pm on weekdays, they have a few sweet lunch deals for $10-12!

Korean fried chicken and halloumi salad from the Capital Markets

Korean fried chicken and halloumi salad from the Capital Markets

Food markets – $-$$

Probably one of my absolute favourite places to eat is at food markets! Rows of stalls all selling different cuisines; delicious smells hitting you from all directions; the hustle and bustle of people trying to find the perfect meal; not to mention having a 4 or 5 course progressive dinner 😉 For a small town, Wellington has them aplenty!

Your first port of call should be Cuba Street, where you can find food markets on a Friday night (on Leftbank) and Saturday night (lower Cuba Street). Here, you’ll get the most mouth-watering kebabs, juicy dumplings, pulled pork burgers, even deep-fried bananas! If you’re spending a Saturday morning by the water, head to Queen’s Wharf for a bite from one of their many food trucks. I vividly remember the incredible haloumi souvlaki I devoured, sitting by the picture-perfect Lagoon. For any other day of the week, there’s the permanent food market on Willis Street. This is also great when it’s a chilly day (of which there are many in Wellington) because it’s semi-indoors and they have heating! You can find heaps of delicious Asian cuisines here, like Korean and Chinese.

Burgerfuel – $-$$

Burgerfuel is actually a restaurant chain, with stores all over New Zealand. I’m honestly shocked and offended that we don’t have any in Melbourne yet. Here we are claiming that we’re a burger capital but don’t have a Burgerfuel, it’s heresy. Some stores are open 24 hours, or at least till late, for all your late night burger cravings. Unlike us plebs in Melbourne who have no other option than Maccas or Hungry Jacks, Wellingtonians have the luxury of eating delicious, seriously good burgers at all hours of the day.

Like most restaurant chains, they have quite an extensive menu. From beef burgers to chicken burgers to veggie burgers, they’ll have whatever you’re looking for. They don’t just throw some plastic cheese, lettuce shreds, and bottled gherkins on your burger (coughmaccascough). Their fillings are super fresh and really substantial. Depending on what you pick, you could get crisp, fresh lettuce and tomato slices, beetroot, real cheese! Double real cheese! Bacon, the glorious avocado, pineapple, there are so many options!

If your burger isn’t enough for you, they do some awesome sides too. Thick-cut chips, chicken fenders, and don’t even get me started on their poutine fries… If you can manage it, you’ll want to try their milkshakes too; they’re chockfull of ice cream.

Perhaps the most ingenious Burgerfuel creation is the doofer. It has the most ridiculous name but it’s basically a folding cardboard burger-holder. I was perplexed when I first saw it and it takes some adjusting to, but it revolutionises burger eating. You put your burger inside it and it stops all your fillings from falling out the other side when you take a massive bite. If someone else doesn’t do it soon, I might have to personally bring Burgerfuel to Melbourne.

Making the most of the 2 for 1 deal on Mondays!

Making the most of the 2 for 1 deal on Mondays!

Chow – $$-$$$

Chow has been one of my cousin’s favourite restaurants for years, and it turns out it’s pretty popular with other locals too. Known for their Asian fusion tapas-style meals, Chow is a food sensation you don’t want to miss. Their menu has five different sections: steam, grill, fresh, fry, and curries & noodle soups. I suspect separating it into these categories is meant to ease ones decision-making. Unfortunately, everything sounds so amazing and the menu is so diverse that you’ll want to order it all.

They serve some of your classics, like beef and chicken satay, and Vietnamese rice paper rolls. They also have some more exotic and unique things on the menu: salmon with spinach and cashew pesto encased within a thin har gow pastry; banana leaf wrapped tarakihi with a tangy coconut sauce; beggars purse dumplings stuffed with mushroom, leek and bamboo. It’s enough to have me drooling just at the thought.

Sweet specials: Chow has a $25 lunch deal. This includes two dishes from a set menu, coconut or jasmine rice, and a drink to wash it all down. Even better than this is their 2 for 1 Mondays. All day and night on a Monday, order any two dishes and get the lower priced one for free! My cousin and I strategically planned our trip on a Monday so that we could order as many dishes as could possibly fit on our table. I’d definitely recommend this so you can try as many of those Asian tapas as you can 😉

Bonus: The Library

This place is more like a lounge/cocktail bar than a food place and is only open after 5pm, so time your visit well. In addition to having some of the best luxury cocktails in Wellington (so I’ve heard), they also serve up some delectable desserts. They’re right next door to Chow, so it’s all too easy to slip over for a sweet treat after stuffing yourself silly with Asian tapas. Their dessert menu changes seasonally, but could typically include Early Grey crème brulee, or warm chocolate fondant with custard, and raspberry & basil gelato. With it’s bookshelf-lined walls, The Library is a cozy, kooky little bar. A great place to spend an evening if you’re not ready to go home from your food adventures just yet!

Deadly deals: to score two desserts for the price of one, make sure you’re here on a Tuesday. For 2 for 1 cocktails, Wednesday’s the night to go.

Which of these places would you make a beeline for a soon as you hit Wellington town?

How to spend 48 hours in Wellington, New Zealand

How to spend 48 hours in Wellington, New Zealand

At the southern tip of the North Island of New Zealand is the country’s capital city, Wellington. It sits between the Rimutaka Range and the Cook Strait. Fun fact: It’s the world’s southernmost capital city. Being a roughly halfway point, it’s a great stop for backpackers and adventurers to chill out for a few days. Whether you’re travelling up or down the country, you’ve probably spent a lot of time conquering mountains, swimming in lakes, or bungee jumping. Wellington is a cool little metropolitan hub to recharge at and then set off again, ready for more adventure. Here’s your guide on how to spend 48 hours in Wellington.

Wellington by night (Image: pixabay.com)

Wellington by night (Image: pixabay.com)

Where to stay

Anywhere near Courtenay Place or Cuba Street is ideal, since they’re the central most areas of the city. Though I personally haven’t stayed at any hostels, you could check out Hostelworld for reviews. To be honest though, you could stay anywhere in the Wellington township area because it’s such a compact city! You can walk pretty much everywhere, and if it’s too far to walk, it’ll just be a short bus ride away. I stay in Lyall Bay, which is considered “really far away” in Wellington terms, but it’s only a 15-minute bus ride to town. Moral of the story: Don’t worry too much about location because everywhere is easily accessible.

Day 1

Morning

Presumably you got in last night from a long bus ride or flight, and wake up this morning feeling refreshed and ready to explore. I’d recommend doing just that! Go for a walk along Courtenay Place and Cuba Street to get a sense of the city. You’ll find lots of places to eat here, but I’ll go into more detail about where to eat in my next post. Head to Lambton Quay if you’re up for a spot of shopping. They have heaps of retailers here, so if there’s anything you need, this is the place to find it. Next on your list is beautiful Queens Wharf, tracing along the harbour. You’ll walk past the man-made Lagoon and the impromptu diving board, where people always seem to be swimming in and diving off no matter the temperature outside.

The beautiful, blue Wellington Lagoon

The beautiful, blue Wellington Lagoon

Afternoon

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can hire kayaks or paddleboards from Queens Wharf for about $35 for 2 hours. This is heaps of fun; you can paddle around the lagoon and even head out into the bay. Just be careful to leave enough time coming back because the tides can change on you in an instant! When we went, it was easy to get out there but a real workout coming back. Check out this video my friend Tanguy made from when we went paddleboarding in Wellington if you need any convincing. If you want to get out on the water, but don’t want to get soaked to the skin, they hire out peddle-boats from the Lagoon too.

Evening

Once you’re clean and dry after your kayak adventure, you might want to check out Mount Vic Lookout if you’ve got access to a car. From here, you’ll get panoramic views of Wellington City and across the water, which are stunning at dusk or at night. If you don’t have a car though, you might want to save this for tomorrow because walking up there is no small effort. You could go for a walk along Queens Wharf again instead; it has a very different feel at night than it does during the day. Bring a jumper and rug up, it’s cold by the water at night!

If you’re up for a drink to warm up, The Library and Hanging Ditch are great little cocktail bars. If a livelier crowd is what you’re after, see if any rugby games are televising and find the nearest sports bar. Rugby is THE sport of New Zealand, and watching a match with the locals is certainly something you want to experience, if you haven’t already. You don’t want to get home too late though, you’ve still got things to do tomorrow 😉

The view from along Queens Wharf. The Te Papa Museum is the big yellow building behind the ship.

The view from along Queens Wharf. The Te Papa Museum is the big yellow building behind the ship.

Day 2

Morning

I know museums aren’t for everyone, but I’d definitely recommend checking out Te Papa. It has some really cool exhibits, and there’s something for everyone. My personal favourite is the preserved giant squid.  They also have featured exhibits that change a few times a year, so you’ll want to find out what’s showing at the time. When I last went, the ANZAC exhibit was showing. This was incredible; Weta Workshops had crafted these insanely lifelike giant figurines from the war at Gallipoli. They depicted the stories and struggles of individuals; two soldiers loading and firing a machine gun as their friend lay wounded next to them; a nurse, heartbroken after receiving news of the death of her brother; an injured soldier scraping his food rations out of a tin. The workmanship was amazing and the stories really hit home. Entry is by donation (if you can afford it) so it’s worth popping in for a quick look.

The view from Mount Victoria Lookout

The view from Mount Victoria Lookout

Afternoon

If you haven’t been yet, check out the Mount Victoria Lookout. There are a few walking trails you can take up there, but it is quite a hike. The panoramic views are worth it though; you’ll get the best view over the city and surrounding harbour and mountains. For any Lord of the Rings fans out there, Mount Vic was a filming location for The Fellowship of the Ring. You can find the spot where Frodo tells the other hobbits to “Get off the road!” when escaping the Nazgul, and hide under the same tree that they did.

From Mount Vic, you can head down for a stroll to Oriental Bay. Even though it’s technically a man-made beach, it’s still a really nice place to spend a sunny afternoon. Across the road from the beach is a gelato place called “Kaffee Eis”. They’re known for having some of the best gelato in Wellington, so if you’ve got a sweet tooth like me, you don’t want to miss this. I still have fond memories of their feijoa gelato, eaten whilst enjoying the late afternoon Wellington sunshine by the beach. (FYI: For anyone who wants gelato but can’t make it down to Oriental Bay, they have a Kaffee Eis on Cuba Street too).

Evening

Take a final stroll along the waterfront on your way back to your accommodation to pack. This might be a great chance to check out some top eateries in town. My next blog post will cover how to eat in Wellington like a local, so stay tuned for that. Hopefully you’ll be leaving tomorrow with fond memories of Wellington and maybe you’ll even want to extend your stay!

The walk to Red Rocks, not another soul in sight.

The walk to Red Rocks, not another soul in sight.

Stay a little longer

If you’re in Wellington for more than 2 days, here are some more things you can check out!

  • The Red Rocks walk in Island Bay. You can either drive out to Island Bay or catch the number 1 bus to the end of the line. It’s a beautiful walk on a pretty isolated stretch of beach, so you’ll be on your own except for an occasional four-wheel-drive. If you’re there between May and October, you might be lucky enough to spot some seals down there!
  • The Weta Cave. If you’re a fan of Lord of the Rings or The Hobbit, you need to get yourself down to the Weta Cave. They have guided tours that you need to book for, but even just going down to have a look will have you fan-girling. They have the stone trolls out the front, and all kinds of props and costumes on display.
  • Wellington Botanical Gardens. Pack a picnic and spend a lazy afternoon wandering around the gardens. They have a variety of events on throughout the year, so you can check out the calendar here to see if anything tickles your fancy.
  • Check out if there are any rugby matches at the Cake Tin. This is the next step up from watching a rugby game at a sports bar. The atmosphere at a live game is fantastic! General admission tickets are about $40, and can be bought online or just at the door. The Wellington super rugby team is the black-and-yellow Hurricanes, so I’d be wary if you’re thinking about supporting anyone but them 😉

Which places could you definitely not miss in Wellington?